Dhampus Peak lays Northeast of the big Dhaulagiri massif. It is in terms of climbing technicalities an easy mountain to ascent. The overwhelming altitude differences between the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges make Dhampus Peak a very exposed spot to observe the scenery from. Having Tukuche Peak (6920m) and Dhaulagiri (8167m) spectacularly near you enjoy the feeling of being part of the extreme altitudes of the Himalayas. The biggest mountain range in the world with uninterrupted heights between seven and eight thousand meters, containing Annapurna -1, 2, 3 & 4, Annapurna-South, The Nilgiris and Tilicho Peak tower above the horizon in the South.
The 3500-meter ascent from Tukuche, where our climb starts, makes you feel having gone really high. The normal route to Dhampus Peak follows the west-ridge, which connects Dhampus Pass (5200m), where our highest camp is placed, with the summit. For acclimatized people we have a 6-day schedule starting from the High Plains Inn in Tukuche. For unacclimatized individuals we offer various acclimatization programs, which each take an additional 4 days. An ideal combination is the trek over the 5400-meter high Thorung Pass.
Though this expedition exceeds the 6000-meter frontier, no technical climbing skills are required. The use of crampons depends on snow conditions. This means any experience in walking on snow/ice is advisable.
As there are no steep pitches and no glacier traverses at all, we won't be roped together. Hence knowledge about knots and rescue operations are also not required.
Good physical health and mental perseverance necessary.
The name Island Peak was given to the mountain in 1952 by Eric Shipton's party who were on their way to explore the Barun Gorge. Seen from above Dingboche the mountain does indeed resemble an island in a sea of ice. In 1983 it was renamed Imja Tse, although for most people the descriptive name of Island Peak seems to have been retained.
The mountain was first dimbed in 1953 by a very prestigious team in preparation for the ascent of Everest. They were Charles Evans, Alf Gregory, Charles Wylie and Tenzing Norgay, with seven Sherpas who were trying out the new fangled oxygen sets; as practice, of course, for loftier things. Fortunately this didn't set a precedent and most people seem able to climb it without bottled air, although a Sherpa.
Seen from the moraines between Pheriche and Dingboche the mountain doesn't look too impressive, dwarfed as it is by one of the largest mountain faces in the world; the South Face of Lhotse. However, on close inspection it reveals itself to be an interesting and attractive summit with a highly glaciated West Face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself is really an extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated from it by a small col. Above this gap, rising to the south, is a classically beautiful ridge leading to the summit of lmja Tse. The continuation of this ridge, descending south-west, provides part of the normal route of ascent and leads in turn to the South Summit, seen capping the rocky west facet of the mountain when viewed from near Chhukhung.
As well as providing an enjoyable climb the peak also provides some of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. If the peak can be likened to an island in a glacial sea, then the mainland forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise in the north to the rugged summits of Nuptse (7.879m) Lhotse (8.501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8.410m), as yet still unclimbed and Lhotse Shar (8.383m). To the east, rising above the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar Glacier, is Cho Polu (6.734m). beyond which can be seen the red granite mass of Makalu (8,475m).
To the south of the Imja Glacier the icy flutings of Baruntse (7.720m) and the Amphu peaks lead the eye to the lofty pinnacle of Ama Dablam (6.856m) which is like a giant sea-stack guarding the entrance to the glacial bay in which Island Peak stands.
Day 01 : Kathmandu to Beni by bus with all staff and climbing Gear Stay in Lodge.
Day 02 : Beni to Tato Pani Stay in Lodge.
Day 03 : Tatopani to Ghasa Stay in Lodge.
Day 04 : Ghasa to Tukuche Stay in Lodge.
Day 05 : Ascent from Tukuche to first camp at 4000 meters Stay Tent.
Day 06 : Second camp at 4900 meters Camping. Stay Tent.
Day 07 : Rest day for Ams and basic climbing technique training.
Day 08 : Highest camp at Dhampus Pass, 5200 meters
Day 09 : Summit attempt ( Dhampus Peak)
Day 10 : Descent to second camp
Day 11 Descent to Tukuche Stay at Lodge
Day 12 : Tukuche to to Jomsom stay in Lodge
Day 13 : fly from Jomsom to Pokhara and Kathmandu.
# Note : 2 days Extra need for AMS. so total tours will be 15 days.
Cost: Only trekking. EURO: 55 ( US$ 63) Per person per day. Cost base on 7 to 9 pax.
Cost Distribution : :
Hotel in Thamel ( Greeting Palace ) EURO 7 ( 9 US$ ) per person.
Flights Jomsom to Pokhara and Kathmandu. Euro 155 ( 201 US$) per person.includes our Guide tickets.
Land transport EURO: 119 ( 145 US$) per person.
Cost with Dhampus peak climbing. It is group rates that you have to divide below the cost.
Climbing permit: US$ 1200 up to 7 people and US$ 240 extra each participants to join with a group.
#Note : Climbing permit charges varies according to Ministry of Tourism, culture and civil aviation.)
Additional Cost if you want to use :
Climbing guide cost EURO : 650 (US$: 840).
Climbing equipments charge : USD 360